“I’ll ask the ancestors to look after you tonight.”
Gumbaynggirr artist Matthew Flanders completes his introduction and formal welcome to Country. He is standing with his back to deserted Charlesworth Bay, a small cove north of Coffs Harbour in NSW, and behind him the sun has turned the horizon a soft pink. Standing or sitting in a semicircle on the sand, facing Flanders, we’re the only people on the beach. Our coaches may have passed the Big Banana on the short drive from the railway station, but this sheltered spot feels a world away from Coffs’ amusement parks and surf shops.
Many travel companies spruik special signature experiences that no one else can access, and this dinner under the stars as part of our Great Southern rail journey from Brisbane to Adelaide is exactly that, but while it is exclusive, it doesn’t feel elite. After the sunset ceremony, we sit at rows of long tables to share generous platters of local prawns and oysters, perfectly pink Angus beef, roasted Dorrigo potatoes and this morning’s line-caught snapper, sourced from the bay behind us. Under a canopy of fairy lights, and with a mellow mood created by two acoustic guitarists, the evening has the ambience of a summer wedding.
This journey may be luxurious, but it’s very laid-back. That makes sense. We’re not travelling between grand European capitals, we’re here to experience the diversity of the Australian landscape on an epic 2885-kilometre journey from Queensland to South Australia. Hats, sunscreen and sturdy shoes are packing must-haves. Formal gowns and dinner suits, not so much.
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Unlike sleeper trains designed for commuting, Journey Beyond offers a rail “experience”, which means organised opportunities to get off the train and see and do more. I’m looking forward to tasting wine in the Hunter Valley and being a tourist in my own town when we stop in Melbourne, but secretly I’d be happy if the train didn’t stop until we reached Adelaide. There are people who like train travel and people who love train travel. I’m one of the latter, especially when the train is as beautifully appointed as the Great Southern.
Gazing out the window of my cabin is hands down my favourite way to pass the time. I’ve travelled this route by road many times, so the scenery is like visiting an old friend. From Brisbane, we’re soon into the hinterland of southern Queensland, where glossy black cows doze in the shade and the rolling hills are dotted with classic timber farmhouses and rusted tin sheds. The route clings to the coast as it heads south, then diverts inland, offering views of farmland, bush and small towns.
Getting acclimatised to the train takes a moment. Navigating the carriage corridors requires dexterity. Sleeping on a train is not quite as blissful as I remembered, even though my bed is very comfortable. “Don’t worry, you’ll get used to it, tonight will be better,” says Chloe, one of the cheerful cabin attendants looking after Gold Premium passengers, after our bumpy first night.
After a day’s exploring the Hunter Valley, Port Stephens or Newcastle, there’s a buzz in the lounge and there’s no shortage of friendly conversation. The passengers include many overseas guests taking the opportunity to see Australia while they visit friends and family, and locals wanting to see their home in a unique way. A few are ticking off every great rail journey in Australia.
On our last night on the train, I join my travel companions at dinner to compare notes on the day’s excursions and the journey overall. The menu is sophisticated yet unpretentious and proudly local. We’re all envious of the passengers continuing all the way to Perth on the Indian Pacific. In their journey across Australia by rail, they’re travelling in a style that’s becoming increasingly popular – seeing the grand sweep of a country at a pace that’s delightfully slow. That’s an idea I can get on board with.
THE DETAILS
TOUR
The Great Southern four-day all-inclusive journey from Brisbane to Adelaide costs from, $3790 a person (Gold Premium).
Journey Beyond offers pre- and post-travel accommodation and touring options.
Phone 13 21 47; see journeybeyondrail.com.au
FLY
Virgin Australia, Qantas and Jetstar all offer domestic flights to and from Brisbane and Adelaide. See virginaustralia.com; qantas.com; jetstar.com
The writer travelled as a guest of Journey Beyond.
