Seven wonders within Tasmania’s West Coast
A tragic history, world heritage wilderness, scenic coastal walks and wild terrain like no other await.
See a private patch of Tasmanian history
Originally part of the 140,000 hectares designated in the early 19th century to the Van Diemen’s Land Company, the roughly 9000-hectare private property of Woolnorth is now home to about 40 wind turbines, each 60 metres tall, Cape Grim – the site of a horrific 1828 massacre that devastated the local Indigenous population – and the company’s heritage outbuildings. A two-hour tour with Woolnorth Tours is led by the outgoing and animated Laura Dabner and includes a walk to the northernmost tip of Tasmania and homemade morning tea in the old wool shed, where currawongs now nest. See woolnorthtours.com.au
Wander a volcano’s skeleton in Stanley
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Rising above the historic town of Stanley, The Nut is a 143-metre-tall plug of a once-active volcano. Erosion over millions of years has left this distinctive coastal plateau, which features a three-kilometre circuit around its peak. Enjoy the ascent in the cable car, which stops at a platform that leads to the circuit walk, multiple breathtaking lookouts over Bass Strait and several significant Tasmanian Aboriginal cultural sites. See parks.tas.gov.au
Hop aboard a history lesson
Copper was once hauled by rail up Queenstown’s steep hills and cliff faces – including one seven-kilometre section that’s the steepest “steam haul” in the southern hemisphere. Board the train (once the only way to reach the town) for a journey along the edge of the Queen River, through rugged rainforest and unforgiving wilderness. The railway recently announced a collaboration with Tasmanian chef Rodney Dunn, of New Norfolk’s Agrarian Kitchen to revamp the onboard menu. See westcoastwildernessrailway.com.au
See world heritage wilderness by land and sea
Strahan’s Macquarie Harbour is one of Australia’s deepest, but a half-day Gordon River Cruise also takes in its narrow and shallow entrance to the Southern Ocean, known as Hells Gates. The electric hybrid vessel Spirit of the Wild then takes guests into the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, including visits to the ruins of the former penal colony on Sarah Island and the rainforest and Huon Pines of Heritage Landing. See gordonrivercruises.com.au
Catch a performance of Australia’s longest running play
Head to Strahan’s Davey Theatre to learn the rest of the Sarah Island story. Australia’s longest running play, The Ship That Never Was, was written by Richard Davey and debuted in Strahan in 1994. It has run ever since, with daily shows from September to May and select winter showings. Davey’s daughter Kiah now directs, with local and mainland actors, as well as audience members, performing the comedic retelling of the ill-fated (and borderline unbelievable) journey of the last ship built on Sarah Island. See roundearth.com.au
Explore a slice of art deco in the wilderness
Opening in 1933 with “talkies” and at one time even becoming an indoor cricket stadium, Queenstown’s Paragon Theatre has been restored by passionate locals (born-and-bred Anthony Coulson included, who now runs RoamWild Tours) to serve up dinner and movie events. The art deco theatre has a plush mezzanine, a floor painted to resemble marble and the original projectors, which are accessible on a self-guided tour. Coulson’s Boom & Bust Tour is the best way to experience the impact of the theatre on a town that ebbed and flowed with mining. See roamwild.com.au
Brave the roughest sports ground in Australia
The local team has a pretty good home ground advantage at the all-gravel Queenstown Oval (Go Crows!), the only venue of its kind in Australia. It was built in 1895 and still hosts Australian rules games, with skinned knees and dusty plumes both regular sights. See it from above at the Spion Kop Lookout, which has panoramic views over the whole town. Self-contained RVs can camp beneath the pines in the oval’s carpark, for $5 in the honesty box.
The writer visited parts of the West Coast as a guest of Outback Spirit as part of its Tasmanian Wilderness Explorer tour. See outbackspirittours.com.au
Riley Wilson is a freelance journalist and editor specialising in travel, food, architecture and agriculture. She is a former desk editor at The Sydney Morning Herald and The Age, and the creator of the Greater Good newsletter.Connect via email.
