Sponsored by Odakyu Electric Railway
Michelle Bateman
If the frenetic energy of Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station is a test of the senses, then just an 80-minute train ride away lies its antidote in Hakone. This leafy resort town in Kanagawa Prefecture has attracted urbanites for centuries, soothing them with fresh mountain air, restorative hot springs and Edo-period traditions.
With direct access from Shinjuku via the Odakyu Romancecar express train, Hakone is ideal for either a quick daytrip or a longer escape. Pair your ticket with a Hakone Freepass, for access to many of the town’s attractions, including the cable car, Hakone Tozan Railway and sightseeing buses.
See natural vistas and modern art
Nestled inside a volcanic caldera with moody Lake Ashi at its centre, Hakone’s township winds up forested slopes towards mist-covered mountains. Lace up your walking shoes and take in the serenity of the countryside, with its cedar-lined trails and changing foliage, eyes peeled for some of the best views of Fujisan (Mount Fuji) in the country.
Moments of art and culture punctuate the landscape. The red torii gates rising from the waters of Lake Ashi were built in 1952 to commemorate Japan’s post-war independence and serve as the waterfront entrance to the 12th century Hakone Shrine.
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Take a short train ride into the foothills of the mountains, where the Hakone Open-Air Museum is a couple of minutes’ walk from Chokoku-no-Mori station. This outdoor sculpture park has more than 100 pieces by Japanese and international artists, plus a permanent pavilion dedicated to the work of Pablo Picasso. Kids also adore the wide, open spaces and interactive exhibitions. Time your trip to the museum for spring (late March to early April) to see masses of blooming cherry blossoms, with fewer crowds compared to other parts of town.
Touch geothermal waters
Hakone’s centuries-old onsen culture is fed by more than a dozen mineral-rich hot springs heated deep beneath the volcanic landscape around Owakudani. Tradition dictates that communal baths are gender-segregated and follow strict bathing etiquette, including nude soaking. Feeling shy? Many of the ryokans around town offer private open-air baths on balconies or terraces.
The water can feel intense at first, so lower yourself in slowly, allowing your skin to adjust to the heat. Within minutes, shoulders drop, limbs feel heavy and the warmth feels deeply calming.
Smell the forest air
The Hakone Tozan Railway is Japan’s oldest mountain railway still in operation, climbing through dense forest from Hakone-Yumoto to Gora via a series of sharp gradients and three switchbacks. In early summer, hydrangeas line the tracks in a palette of blues and purples, while maples paint the landscape vivid red in autumn.
The train journey to Gora takes around 40 minutes but you’ll want to hop off along the way to inhale deep lungfulls of fresh mountain air, perfumed with the earthy scent of mossy embankments and towering cedar trees. From Gora, transfer to the cable car to climb even higher towards Sounzan and the Hakone Ropeway.
Taste volcanic eggs
Owakudani, accessible via the Hakone Ropeway, is an active volcanic area formed by eruptions roughly 3000 years ago, where volcanic plumes still rise from the earth today. Legend has it that eating kuro-tamago — the area’s famous black eggs boiled in these natural hot springs — brings good luck and longevity. In reality, they’re regular chicken eggs that have been boiled in geothermal springs, the sulphur in the water turning the eggshells a deep shade of charcoal — but eating one should still be on any foodie’s Hakone bucket list.
Higher in the mountains, spring water naturally filtered through volcanic rock is used in the production of handmade soba noodles, giving a clean, delicate texture and letting the nutty flavour of buckwheat come through. Order a plate of chilled soba served with dipping sauce and toppings at one of the soba restaurants around town, or slurp them down in a hot and nourishing broth.
Experience traditional craftsmanship
Originating in Hakone during the Edo period, Hakone Yosegi Zaiku (marquetry) is a traditional craft created by artisans who meticulously assemble various types of wood, each harvested from local forests to showcase their unique natural colours.
This craft flourished as a popular souvenir for travellers passing through Hakone, once a key post town along the historic Tokaido road. Even today, these beautiful geometric designs remain a favoirite memento for visitors looking to take home a piece of their journey.
In Hakone, you can find hands-on workshops where you can try your hand at this 200-year-old tradition. By piecing together small wooden fragments yourself, you can truly connect with the history and artistry of this enduring local craft.
The Hakone Freepass and Limited Express Romancecar offer unlimited travel for two or three days across Hakone’s railways, ropeways and lake cruises, plus discounts at local attractions — all easily purchased and used on your phone.
